Snorkeling for Muzungus

There’s something evil about the watery route from Kendwa to the coral reefs at Mnemba Island. Last time, rolling waves, severe sunburn, dehydration and diesel fumes combined to create motion sickness that left me barely able to crawl out of the boat. I managed to drag myself a few feet to a hammock, where I laid as still as I could until my stomach stopped roiling. This time, we waited in the rocking waves for some really boorish tourists and rode in even rockier waves to the midway point. Emily had turned green and I was afraid to open my mouth to ask about her, fearing what might come out of it. The snorkeling itself was a bit of a bust – so many fat, hairy muzungus you got karate kicked by a flipper in the face a half dozen times. It was murky and half of the coral was dead, so there was a lot less aquatic life. We still saw some zebra, angel and parrot fish, as well as some starfish and lots of sea urchins. (Boo…)

On the return trip, Emily and I decided to get out at Nungwe, the town next to Kendwa and simply walk back to our hotel. I asked someone on the boat if it was possible and they said we might have to wade near the rocks, but it was doable. So, like two sailors without sea legs, we stumbled off in the direction of home, rounded the first set of rocks and realized we were in trouble. There was a good quarter-kilometer of rocks and waves, and with the tide coming in it was harrowing. The surf pounded into us, then into the rocks, then back into us on the rebound. Both of us lost our balance at least once. Emily got pounded a few times and emerged with scrapes on her knees, shoulder and elbow and blood coming out of her toe. She also bonked her head. I lost my wrap, then caught it on the rebound wave.

We emerged about three minutes later, hearts pounding and soaked through. It was the most exhilarating three minutes either of us had had in a long time.